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HowTo: 4-channel SSR to go with the controller in the "How To"
( Sean Bowf)
Step 3 : Pieces/parts
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| | The parts list for the SSR is here in excel format. The links on the sheet go to mouser's listing for the parts. The prices were current as of 19 February 2006.
The normal MOC3023 optoisolator was not available at mouser when I ordered my parts and made my prototype. So, I ordered the MOC3023M that is listed in the parts list. The MOC3023 is cheaper, and for that reason would be a better option if they are available when you order your parts.
The 180 ohm resistor goes between the optoisolator and the triac. The 750 ohm resistor goes on the low voltage (input) side of the optoisolator.
The sockets are optional. You could solder your optos directly to the PCB if you chose to.
If I was to change anything in the design/partslist, I would probably go to the 5mm spacing terminal blocks instead of the 3.5mm I used. No real reason, I would just be more comfortable with a larger space between the 115 volt traces.
When I first started making these boards, I was pre-cutting all the component leads to the size that was needed to fit in the board. No real reason why, I just thought this was how it was supposed to be done. Since then, I started soldering the components to the board, then using a lead nipper (wire cutter) to cut the leads off after they were soldered. This was MUCH quicker and easier. The only problem I have had with using this method is the TRIACs. Their long thick leads seem to act like a heat sink. So I spot solder them, nip off their leads, then go back and finish soldering them in place. I am using a 15watt soldering iron from radio shack. If you have a better soldering iron, this extra step may not be necessary.
The only other input I have is the order of component assembly. I solder on the resistors first, then the opto sockets. After that I do the triacs, terminal blocks, and the RJ45 socket. The optos can be plugged into their sockets at any time after the sockets are soldered on, but I normally wait until I know the board is going to be in a safe (static free) spot to keep from damaging them before I install them.
Make sure you install the components in the right direction. The TRIACs and optos won't work if installed backwards. Here is a layout picture.
The finished board is pretty small and can fit in the miniature silver ESD (electro static discharge) bags that some of my components are mailed in. This is a good place to store them until you are ready to use them.
The picture at the beginning of this step is of the finished board next to a quarter to give you an idea of the finished size of it.
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