Step 1 : In the beginning...

The usual disclaimer applies. You should know a little about electricity, electrical components, and safety around them before attempting these projects. I take no responsibility for your application of any information I post here. Attempt it at your own risk.

Read through the whole "How To" before starting the project. You might figure out some things you want to do different, or might understand better if you read it all before you start.

If anyone sees any errors in this "How To", please let me know so I can fix them.

This is a pretty long and detailed "How To." You might want to go grab a drink and get comfortable before you start reading it... 8-)

I do not do this for a living. Most of the information I used to make these SSRs and the controller was attained either on this website, or some place else on line. I just put it all together, so you won't have to...

Acknowledgement:
I would like to thank those that answer our questions on this website. I don't want to leave anyone out, but want to mention two folks in particular that helped me learn about controllers, SSRs and much more. Those two folks are Phil short, and Brian Bresocnik. Phil had the patience to answer my questions...then when I still did not understand, answer them again in simpler terms. Brian...he beat me here by a couple weeks. We shared ideas and proofed each other's designs through the web site and through E-mail. We learned this stuff together, and that in itself, helped me out...

If you have not read my "How To" on making the controller, please do. It will give you explanations that I probably will not repeat here.

Step 2 : The PCB

Like the controller, I designed the layout of the PCB in expressPCB. To download the software go to this website, expressPCB.com (click).

I did not post the expressPCB file for my controller, but will for this SSR. It seems that different folks have different ideas about how the SSR should be layed out (number of channels, connections, etc, etc). If you change it, and post it back on the forum, please make sure the version number and file title are changed so the different files are not confused. Click here to view or download the file. If you would like to download the expressPCB file, right click the link, and left click on "save target as."

A little note about the SSR. This is the first time I have used terminal blocks. The terminal blocks I found at mouser.com had metric spacing. Either 3.5mm or 5mm. The default for expressPCB was .025 inch for their snap grid. I laid out the whole SSR with this setting, then changed it to .5mm to get the spacing right for the 3.5mm terminal blocks. I mention this because if you move any of them with the default "snap" setting, their spacing will not be correct any more.

Ok...about the PDF file of my SSR. I have been purchasing PCBs from E-bay, and came across a bunch of them that are 4.5 x 7 inches. This is why I designed my controller and my SSRs to fit on this size board. I got 6 SSRs on a single PCB. If your board is a different size, you might need to either use expressPCB to move them around to maximize the number per your size of board, or go ahead and print my PDF file and cut them out to lay them out onto your board. To view/print the PDF file of my layout, click here. You can also download and save the file per the instructions above.

I seperate the 6 SSRs on the PCB by cutting them apart on a scroll saw AFTER I have etched them. This way I am not cutting any copper, just the substrate. Even though all the boards I bought are listed with the same substrate, some seem to cut pretty easy, while others break two or three blades before I get them cut. If I find a blade that seems to work better than others, I will post back here. Some of the substrates can be hazardous. Check if yours is, and if so, make sure you take the proper precautions when cutting them (dust mask, etc).

As to etching the PCBs, check my controller "How To" for the link and information. As a matter of taste and comfort, I still use the radio shack etchant as opposed to the muriatic acid method.

I use 2 oz copper boards for both my SSRs and the controller. They take longer to etch, but they can carry more current on the same size trace as a 1 oz board. The main 115VAC trace on the SSR is 150 mils. This size trace should be able to handle a little over 6 amps on a 1 oz board. So, you can get away with using a 1 oz board if you stick to around 1 amp or less per channel. 1 amp should be 3 strands of 100 bulb mini-light, or about 120 watts. Check your light strings to make sure they are around 40 watts each before connecting three to a channel on the SSR.

Most of the holes are drilled with a .029 inch (#69) drill bit mounted in a drill press. The RJ45 jack mounting holes are drilled with a 1/8th inch bit. The drill bit I use for the triacs and the terminal blocks was given to me, and I dont know what size it is, sorry (will edit the size in here if/when I figure out what size it is).

There is a VIA out by itself between the terminal blocks in my layout. That is there for nothing more than a guide for drilling the mounting hole. I drilled a 1/8th inch mounting hole at this location when I built my SSRs. That VIA is totally gone after drilling.

Step 3 : Pieces/parts


The parts list for the SSR is here in excel format. The links on the sheet go to mouser's listing for the parts. The prices were current as of 19 February 2006.

The normal MOC3023 optoisolator was not available at mouser when I ordered my parts and made my prototype. So, I ordered the MOC3023M that is listed in the parts list. The MOC3023 is cheaper, and for that reason would be a better option if they are available when you order your parts.

The 180 ohm resistor goes between the optoisolator and the triac. The 750 ohm resistor goes on the low voltage (input) side of the optoisolator.

The sockets are optional. You could solder your optos directly to the PCB if you chose to.

If I was to change anything in the design/partslist, I would probably go to the 5mm spacing terminal blocks instead of the 3.5mm I used. No real reason, I would just be more comfortable with a larger space between the 115 volt traces.

When I first started making these boards, I was pre-cutting all the component leads to the size that was needed to fit in the board. No real reason why, I just thought this was how it was supposed to be done. Since then, I started soldering the components to the board, then using a lead nipper (wire cutter) to cut the leads off after they were soldered. This was MUCH quicker and easier. The only problem I have had with using this method is the TRIACs. Their long thick leads seem to act like a heat sink. So I spot solder them, nip off their leads, then go back and finish soldering them in place. I am using a 15watt soldering iron from radio shack. If you have a better soldering iron, this extra step may not be necessary.

The only other input I have is the order of component assembly. I solder on the resistors first, then the opto sockets. After that I do the triacs, terminal blocks, and the RJ45 socket. The optos can be plugged into their sockets at any time after the sockets are soldered on, but I normally wait until I know the board is going to be in a safe (static free) spot to keep from damaging them before I install them.

Make sure you install the components in the right direction. The TRIACs and optos won't work if installed backwards. Here is a layout picture.



The finished board is pretty small and can fit in the miniature silver ESD (electro static discharge) bags that some of my components are mailed in. This is a good place to store them until you are ready to use them.

The picture at the beginning of this step is of the finished board next to a quarter to give you an idea of the finished size of it.

Step 4 : Using the SSR board....

Though this "How To" for building the SSR is pretty much done, I thought I would go ahead and show how I implement its use in an outlet box.

I live in Texas, and weather is not really an issue with my display. With this in mind, I took no steps to weather proof my outlet (SSR) boxes. I will either mount them in the bottom of a cheap bucket, and flip the bucket over and put a brick on them, or mount them on a pole hammered into the ground, and then when I am finished setting everything up, bag them with a heavy plastic bag and a zip strap.

I purchased my outlets and outlet boxes from lowes. I stumbled on some surplus computer cords and am using those for the plugs. Without finding these, I would just use the cheap ($1.24) extension cords from lowes. Seems like all the cheap extension cords went from 99 cent to a $1.24 after Christmas. The advantage of using the extension cord is that you can use the female side of it as an "always on" plug dangling out of the box.

I know some folks just use exension cords for all of their plugs. I find that it is cheaper to build the SSRs with outlets.

Step 5 : Preparing the box


The first thing I do to the box is make the hole in it for the RJ45 jack. I do this by laying the face of the jack on a piece of tape (picture above) and outlining it with a pencil. Then rip this small piece of tape from the roll, and hold it over the jack as I place the PCB in my outlet box.


I press it against the side of the box, sticking it to the box. Make sure it is in the right place, then press the whole piece of tape firmly to the box.

I then figure out a spot that should hit the inside of the square on the tape and drill through from the outside of the box. I use this hole as a guide to drill a series of holes that line up with the outside of box on the tape. I then use the side of my drill bit to connect all the holes until I have a square hole in the outlet box. I use a file and pocket knife to dress up the hole until the RJ45 jack fits in the hole.

After this I make a stand off for the non-RJ45 end of the SSR PCB. I make mine out of wood. For my box, it is about a half inch from the bottom of the PCB to the bottom of the box. I put some glue on my stand off, then place it on the bottom of the box and put a screw into it from the bottom of the box to hold it in place until the glue dries.

I then place the SSR PCB back in the box and screw the PCB to the standoff. Once I know that it fits correctly, I remove it to make it easier to install the wires in the terminal blocks (this is not necessary, but I find it easier).