Step 0 : Explanation

Note: This box was designed with the intention of being used for relativly high amperage sources such as big motors and large amounts of floodlights for my home Halloween setup. I figured that there is good application for large lighting setups in christmas displays. These are electromechanical relays, not SSRs, so they are not good great for sequencing but rather for turning on and off large sections of lights for various reasons. The other thing I personally like about this project is you can be pretty computer stupid and still be able to do it as the controller is pre purchase for 20 bucks and runs of timer software available on line.

Step 1 : Construction of the box

I decided to make the box with a front access panel that folds down. I do not have the exact dimensions but through the pictures you can understand the basic idea.

I used large amounts of L brackets and 1/4 inch bolts to assemble this out of 1/2 inch plywood. I simply tightened it down enough that the bolts sunk themselves along with using liquid caulk.

Here are some links to additional pictures I took during the proccess:

Step 2 : Choosing the Board

I chose to use a parallel driven relay board which I purchased pre-assembled for 25 bucks online. This board is more commonly known as "kit 74" and can be found on a myriad of web sites. It includes a web address for a software download that allows you to set on off and pulse times for each relay, though there is some third party stuff out, such as frightmare forest haunt control. Afterall, I was told to use this board from my friends at halloweenforum.

Step 3 : Attatching the outlets

I used 15 amp outlets and broke the tab on the Hot side. I measured them and spaced them equidistant to how they are in a wall so those modular covers(should I ever find a home depot that has enough in stock). I used 8 outlets for connection to the relay, left 1 for always on, and a 10th space for occupation of the power switch.

Step 4 : Wiring the outlets to eachother.

I wired all the grounds and nuetrals of the outlets in series with a ring connecter and 10 gauge wire. I then took a 16 5 inch sections of the same wire an attatched to each hot pole on the 8 switched outlets. The commons all meet up at a barrier strip. The hot lines all attatch to the the relat terminals. The relay common hot then each seperatly(though series would have worked) go to the hot on that barrier strip. This is where it gets confusing. I ran the power directly in from the box to the barrier strip on the door. I then attatched it to a switch and fed it back into the box and to another portion of the strip.