Step 6 : The power strip


I got this power strip at WalMart for $5.00 American. Make sure you get one that has lots of extra space inside, and HAS A METAL CASE!! The metal case is very important as it will become your heat sink for the triacs.

As you can see I have already cut a hole for the CAT-V connector. I had to remove the circuit breaker and trim its leads in order to make room for the connector. I actually screwed this one up. The hole for the connector is too close to where the power cable comes in. I scrapped this one and used it as an experimental prototype.

Step 7 : Circuit breaker modification


Here you can see a closeup of circuit breaker. I had to cut it's tabs real short and solder the wires back on. Notice the CAT-V connector hole in the proper place (hey, nobody's perfect!)

Here you can also see that the outlets use a terminal bar system. It's one long piece of metal with contacts pressed out of them. Here I have removed the one that I'm going to use to attach the SSR board to.

Step 8 : The terminal bar


Here you can see I've pulled out the terminal bar and cut it into smaller pieces. The other bar is pulled out so you can see what it looks like before being cut. Each of the six outlet connectors was cut so that there was about 1/8" gap between them when they were put back in the connector housing. I used hot glue to secure the connectors back in the connector housing.

Step 9 : Assembly


Here you can see the hole for the CAT-V connector.

Step 10 : More assembly


The SSR board is mounted to the metal inside of the power strip. This is where it's VERY important to use ISOLATED TAB TRIACS!!! Otherwise you have to buy and install insulators. (quite costly) All six triacs are mounted to the side but only one has a screw that is long enough to extend through and hold the printed circuit board.