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HowTo: Velleman K8055 & SSRs  (dave haberle)


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Step 1 : Build the Velleman board

The Velleman K8055 is an inexpensive USB experimenter board that has both digital and analog inputs and outputs. Only the eight digital outputs are used in this example. The board kit typically costs $40-$50 and is readily available on-line from many sources.

Step 2 : Modify the Velleman K8055 board


The K8055 USB experimenter board has 8 digital status LEDs labeled LD1-LD8. Immediately to the left of each LED is a 1K ohm resistor; at the front (left) side of each resistor are the words Out1-Out8 for each of the digital channels. At the left side of the resistor 4.7 vdc is available on each channel; on the right side, 1.89 vdc. Tapping the + voltage at the left side of the resistor on the top side of the board is easy with Cat-5 wire. Simply trim no more than ¼” of insulation off the wire and make a small hook-shaped loop. Hook it under the exposed resistor lead, squeeze it gently with a small needle nose plier and solder it into place. The beauty of this easy modification is that it doesn’t change the intrinsic properties of the K8055 board in any way and you can always un-do it simply by unsoldering the wires from the resistor leads.

Step 3 : Build the SSR-2009D boards


This SSR-2009D design is a derivative of Sean Bowf's miniature 4-channel SSR by adding diagnostic LEDs and instead of providing +5v power to the optocouplers and switching the ground, it is reversed so that ground is common and +5v is switched. This allows connecting two SSRs directly to either the 8 outputs from a computer’s standard parallel port or a Velleman K8055 USB experimenter board (see easy Velleman modification notes above). However, in its raw state, it also makes this SSR incompatible with an Olsen 595, Grinch or other board that supplies +5vdc everywhere and switches ground. At the end of this how-to, I will offer additional information that can make the K8055 compatible with the 595 and Grinch SSRs. Also changed are two A/C power leads for each of the four outputs (stranded speaker wire is about the same gauge as the wire in a typical light string and works fine). The board isn’t as compact as Sean’s, but it’s still quite small – about the size of a credit card.

Step 4 : SSR-2009D Construction


I used the free ExpressPCB software to design the circuit board and www.expresspcb.com to etch them. After uploading the PCB data file and ordering via credit card, I received 8 boards for only $113 within 4 days. The boards were beautifully done, tinned and pre-drilled. I would use their service again in a heartbeat -- it is much easier and less hassle than etching your own.

While only four basic components are necessary to make a functional SSR circuit, the diagnostic LEDs make it easier to troubleshoot when lights don’t go on: if a channel’s LED doesn’t light, there’s a connection problem between the controller and the SSR while if the LED lights but the string doesn’t, then the problem is either with the light string itself or A/C power. Any inexpensive LEDs will suffice when you also use the R3 resistors (750 to 1K ohm work fine). The 6-pin IC sockets are nice but you can also solder the optocouplers directly to the board instead. The RJ45 connector is convenient if you plan to connect the SSR to your controller using Cat-3 or Cat-5 wire and a Cat-5 patch panel, but is otherwise unnecessary. RJ45 pins 2, 4, 6, and 8 are used for the +5v signal to the four channels; a standard Cat-5 cable using the common T568B wiring scheme means that pins 2-4-6-8 are solid orange, blue, green and brown respectively so it’s easy to wire. The T568A scheme means the same pins are solid green, blue, orange and brown instead. The SSR also connects pins 1-3-5-7 which are in turn connected to the controller’s ground. You can use commercial Cat-5 cables without modification if you wish.

An extra +5v connection point is added on the board for each of the channels if you are squeamish about soldering in the closeness of the RJ45 pins or don’t plan to use an RJ45 connector at all. Terminal blocks for the outputs are unnecessary if you plan to wire 110VAC directly to the SSR and the four 110v outputs. I snip the plugs off the light strings and use inexpensive wire nuts to connect the strings to the SSR OUT leads. Because a typical light string’s plug has a fuse built into it, I use one of them for the 110vac IN connection to the board to protect against shorts. Since a typical 100-light string uses about 1/3 amp, the 8-amp triacs can easily accommodate up to 3 strings each (about 1amp per triac) and about 4 amps per 4-channel SSR when all lights are on. Theoretically, a standard household 20-amp circuit could handle up to five 4-channel SSRs at once for a total capacity of 60 light strings all lit simultaneously. Theoretically. I’ve never tested 60 on one circuit in actual practice.

Step 5 : SSR-2009D Parts List

Mouser electronics parts list and part numbers:

Essential parts:
MOC3023M optocoupler part# 512-MOC3023M
8 amp 400v triac part# 511-BTA08-400B
750 ohm 1/4 w resistor (R1) part# 660-CF1/4C751J
180 ohm 1/4 w resistor (R2) part# 660-CF1/4C181J

Optional parts:
6-Pin IC Socket part# 571-3902611
RJ45 Jack, 8/8 side entry part# 571-5520251-4
2-point PCB Terminal Blocks part# 651-1984617
LEDs part# 638-MV5753
750 ohm resitor (R3) part# 660-CF1/4C751J
(1K ohm works just as well)



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