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Light Control
| Building your own SSRs |
Author: Brian Hawkins
Date: 12-14-03 15:20
I am planning to build by own ssrs for my other two boxes and am curious to see where you get all of your parts for these. like the triacs and optoisolators. I was reading Drews site on how to bulid you own and went to digi key and did a search for the MOC3042 and MOC3031 and they said that these were discontinued but listed others like them. I do not want to buy the wrong ones or anything like that. Which one should I go with and where is the best place to buy these?
Thanks Alot
Brian Hawkins
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author: Tony Eberle
Date: 12-14-03 19:18
Brian,
I ordered my components from www.arrow.com. Do a search on the following components:
sc141d -> triacs
moc3041 -> optos.
The components are about .75 cents each and mine were delivered in a week.
Take a look at my pictures and you can see one of my finished boards.
Tony
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author: Brian Hawkins
Date: 12-14-03 19:25
Thank You so much for your help I will have to wait until they come in because accroding to thier website they are all out at this time.
Brian
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author: John Pidliskey
Date: 12-15-03 09:24
Brian,
you can also order the parts from www.newarkinone.com. They have the parts are in stock and ship in two days.
For the Opto-isolator the part is: MOC3010, part# 96B4062.
I use the a 4 amp Traic, Part# 09F6222. Go to their site and do a search on the part numbers. they have a 800 number to call.
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author:
 Ted Dodson
Date: 12-17-03 02:45
The basic stuff you need for building SSRs...
OPTOCOUPLERS:
There is a better option for the optocouplers than the moc3010. If you want random turn on (in case you ever want to do dimming) use moc3023 rather than moc3010. For zero crossing (no dimming but a little easier on bulbs) use moc3043 or moc3063. The moc3023 is rated at 400 volts rather than 250 like the moc3010. They are 29 cents at www.arrow.com. The same price as the 3010 and a much better part.
TRIACS:
The only place I've found any real deals on Triacs is once in a great while on eBay. The SC141D that Tony suggests would be fine. You can get a little bit cheaper by doing a description search on the word "triac" (on www.arrow.com). For example I found BTA06-400B (6amp 400volt) for .54, BTA08-600C (8amp 600volt)for .55. Just make sure you check the data sheets so you know what you are buying. You want the TO220 style with an isolated tab. The isolated tab is very important! If it is not isolated it will be live or hot whenever the gate voltage is applied which could cause problems.
Disclaimer: I don't understand everything in the specs! There is some stuff about sensitivity which I presume has to do with how fast the triac fires. I don't think it's a big deal in our case here but maybe one of the actual "experts" around here like will offer a better explanation.
RESISTORS:
You will need about 3 resistors per SSR. The cheapest place I've found to buy them is from Circuit Specialists at www.web-tronics.com. They are $3.00 for 1000 resistors! (I realize that you won't need 1000 but why pay $2.00 for 100 when you can get 1000 for $3.00? There's is a minumum order of $20 but there's so much cool stuff on their site.)
The size resistor you need for the input voltage will depend on the specifications of the optocoupler you use. The moc3023 opto is a 5ma device so you would need a 470 ohm resistor if you are using a 5 volt source. I calculate that by letting someone else (who knows a lot more about it than me) figure it out. Here are the appropriate values from a post by Dan Baldwin in another thread:
For control 5v - 5ma opto I do:
R = (5-1.3)/0.008 = 462 ( I use a 470 ohm resistor )
For control 5v - 10ma opto I do:
R = (5-1.3)/0.013 = 284 ( I use a 330 ohm resistor )
For control 5v - 15ma opto I do:
R = (5-1.3)/0.018 = 202 ( I use a 220 ohm resistor )
For the complete description see the thread at the link below. Pay attention to Dan's posts and ignore my posts! ;)
http://computerchristmas.com/ForumBoard/read.php?f=4&i=706&t=702
There are a couple more resistors in a SSR circuit and the size depends on which schematic you follow. I like the schematics from an article on the teccor web site. It is a great article that tells more than you ever want to know about SSR circuits. I don't have the URL handy but I will try to post it soon.
PROTOBOARD (something to build the circuit on):
You have to build your SSRs on something. I ordered some stripboard part number PC-171 from www.rpelectronics.com. I just checked and they are on sale for 4.08. I think up to 16 SSR circuits could be built on 1 board. I have the plans for this in my head. I have some of the boards and when I get some made I'll try to post some pictures or make a how-to.
TED
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author: Brian Hawkins
Date: 12-18-03 09:56
Thank You all so much while I was looking around on ebay i found a auction for some lots of 8 solid state relays that were brand new so i could not resist because my other box uses high amp ssrs. I was a little worried about overloading the 4 or 8 amp triacs and one of the sites i was at that had 15 amp triacs were wanting 1 or 2 dollars per chip.
But next year I will come up with something new and will more in likely build some more boxes.
When my boxes are all done I will post some pictures.
Thank you all
Brian
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author:
 Frank Olinger
Date: 01-12-04 11:17
ted wrote:
> OPTOCOUPLERS:
> There is a better option for the optocouplers than the
> moc3010. If you want random turn on (in case you ever want
> to do dimming) use moc3023 rather than moc3010. For zero
> crossing (no dimming but a little easier on bulbs) use
> moc3043 or moc3063. The moc3023 is rated at 400 volts rather
> than 250 like the moc3010.
So, the only difference I see between the moc3010 and moc3023,
other than 250v vs. 400v, is the trigger current, 15mA vs. 5mA.
moc3023 & moc3010 data sheet
This makes it better for dimming?
and the moc3043 is not good for dimming, but good for....?
moc3043 data sheet
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| Re: Building your own SSRs |
Author:
 Tim Fischer
Date: 01-12-04 12:27
It's the zero-cross factor that makes an opto "good for dimming" or not.
A zero-cross opto will wait to switch power at a zero-crossing of the AC wave, which helps reduce radio interference and is supposed to be a bit kinder to bulb fillaments. However, since dimming relies on chopping the AC waves at specific, non-zero points, the zero-cross opto is useless here.
All other things being equal, higher isolation voltages and lower trigger currents are better.
-Tim
http://www.plymouthlights.com
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