How to Control Christmas Lights - How to do almost anything with Christmas Displays.
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HowTo: A low cost lighting sequencer (Pt 1)  (Roger Otis)



Step 6 : SSR Cont'd

 
Again I apologize for the quality of the photo. The SSR control box has no heat sinking. My lighting display typically has 11,000 to 12,000 miniature lamps, but only a fraction of the animated lights are on at any one time. Typically, a whole control box of ten channels has only 4 or 5 strings of 100 lamps on at once. The triacs are rated at 4 amps. The whole box of 10 channels is fused at 4 amps with a fast acting fuse. You will have to determine whether the triacs need heat sinking and more ventilation in your situation and make modifications. Also be aware that the metal tabs or bodies of non-isolated triacs are at 120 volts. 120 volt power is available at numerous points in the box.

There is a partition between the receptacle side and the electronic control side. The circuit board is on standoffs. The 120 volt bus is a 12 gauge copper wire held off the board by Vector(T42) push in terminals. The 12 gauge wire is used to provide substantial construction, not for the current rating of 12 gauge wire. The data lines come in from one end of the box and go around the back for connection to the optoisolators. The power comes in the other end to the 120 volt bus and out to the receptacles from the triacs. It is very important that none of the wiring come loose from connections. The circuit board is a perf board with copper pads around each hole. I used a bare copper tinned wire to solder traces to the back of the perf board for the low current traces. I use the unconnected copper pads as needed to solder the traces in place. Of course you can make a printed circuit board. From the schematic diagram shown at the beginning of the How To you should be able to complete the control box. If this is not enough information, it is a good sign that you should not proceed without qualified help.
 

 
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